The Coast - Jamaica -Day five, six, seven
Trying to write about these past couple of days is going to be hard - our plan was to journey around the coastland, hitting up Portland, Ocho Rios, Montego Bay, Negril and Mandeville - Portland was cancelled straight off because of rains that washed out the road - but the rest was still on the go - we had planned to leave at 7:30, but by 'Jamaica time' that turned out to be 1:30, haha. Driving along the Jamaican highways and roads the scenes were unreal - rich, luscious tropical forests, gulleys the shade of lime, a rich, warm scent filling the nostrils. At Clinton and my request we made a detour that took us up a crazy road into the mountains, right along a cliff in some places and only wide enough for one vehicle to pass - both Nadia and I got homesick - but this journey up to St. Mary, the place where my father was born and where most of my relatives on the island come from, was worth it. Just seeing the area, knowing that's where my roots were, the shacks, the people walking and sitting by the road, selling fruits, and though we didn't make it to the place where my father was actually born as it was even higher up into the mountains we visitied the land where my grandfather was born and where the graves of both him and my great-grandfather were born. It was an odd feeling, to be standing above the bones of men without whose existence I wouldn't be here.
By the time we made it to Ocho Rios it was too late to go to Dunns River Falls like we had hoped but we just decided we'd have to come back the next day and went to the beach instead - a beautiful little public beach with water so warm it felt like a bath. We met some boys while there and were teaching them how to swim properly and then having breath-holding, and handstand competitions. I even had a little race with a man we met who said I swam like I was a professional. I was told we tied, but I think he beat me! As we were swimming and the sun was starting to set I noticed a bunch of guys playing soccer on the beach, half of them covered in sand from top to bottom. It was such a great scene - I wanted to take their picture but was kinda hesitant of asking, and of getting out of that amazing water to do it. Finally by the time I did the game had stopped and they were just kicking it around in a circle. We got some great pictures of the ones who were sititng out though - and one (an insanely sandy guy) asked for one with me, another for one with his baby girl - the kind of pictures we'd been hoping for but not managing to get in the city.
When it was time to go we headed to MoBay, driving along the coastland and had a rather unsatisfactory dinner that at least came with a lot of joking amongst us, culminating in 'distress' over being the only table to not have a flower. Lorna's icecream though - the reason she chose that restaurant - was phenomenal! Whoo - detail overload, ok, let's try to be a tad more concise here . . .
In MoBay we stayed at a YWAM facility with beautiful grounds, palm trees, coconuts, nooseberry's, bright flowers, all built on a hill overlooking the ocean. After getting cleaned up it was off to our first 'night on the town' in Jamaica - Margaritaville was the destination and though it took an hour or so to get into it (when they stopped playing pop'ie dance music)and more of the tourists left, it was pretty good - man, some of the guys here really know how to dance! Impressed me much more than the ladies.
During the morning we took some walks around the property, went for a swim at the pool and had one of the best breakfasts I've ever had in my entire life. I think I commented on it's goodness near a dozen times - Saltfish and vegetables, fried plaintain, fried dumplings . . .salivating just thinking of it - and . . . once again we were off, back to Ocho Rios with a quick stop at the place where Colombus first landed, a tour through the Green Grotto caves - a place rich with history and intrigue and blessed with a great guide to add to the wonder and beauty of this ancient hideout. At one point we were supposed to be able to 'truly experience' what it would have been like for the slaves who had to hideout deep in the caves around the underground lake - walking up the steps with only the sound of our leader's voice to guide us - he said it would get so dark we couldn't see our hands in front of our face, and he wasn't lying. Less than a minute into it though - one woman, claiming she wasn't Jamaican and she couldn't do this begged for the man to turn the light on - ruining the experience for all of us >>sigh<< some people. To all you parents and would be's out there, teach your children from an early age to just grit their teeth and bear it! Or at least know their limitations and not enter some situation that affects others unless they know they're going to make it through.
We had hoped to spend some time with a couple, Carlton and Pansy Mullings, who were instrumental in my mother coming to Jamaica and who married my parents. Unfortunately because of time though, it turned into a less than 10 minute visit only with Rev. Mullings. It was still good though - and I'm glad we caught at least him. We were hoping we'd be able to hook up again on the weekend but it looks like that will be full of cousin stuff - just not enough time! Or not enough weekend time at least, haha.
And then. . . onto what was probably one of the highlights for me on the weekend trip and I think Clinton as well. (Sadly we had to say goodbye to Nadia as she needed to get back to Kingston for work). Dunns River Falls. This places is incredible. It's this long water fall leading down to the ocean and you start at the bottom and climb your way up to the top. Much to my annoyance, I lost one of my contacts about 5 minutes into the journey (while fighting against a massive current trying to get under a strong, strong fall) and so I was half blind for the next hour and a half or so - but it was still wonderful. We were told to join up with a group but we wanting to take our own time and find our own way so we quickly left them and just 'moseyed' up, battling the currents, resting in the shallow pools, being massaged as we lay our backs against the rocks and let the rushing water fall over us. Lorna was taking pictures for us from the steps along the side so we thankfully we have some documentation of it! It's hard to explain really, this place is wondrous - Clinton commented a couple of times that he couldn't believe a place like this exists and I agreed - we have a creative God. I felt so blessed to be able to be there - and to be there with my brother. I'm so thankful he came on the trip, it would have been such a different experience without him, not nearly so enjoyable. At the top of the falls (well, as far as people go) we just relaxed, soaking in as much of it as we could. We found some parts where the water would push us down, creating a sort of slide, haha, like children we let it take us along and revelled.
We did a quick shop stop where Clinton got some gifts for Alysis and I was able to buy a painting I'd seen earlier on in the day - $120 US was the first price offered and with the help of Lorna who wanted to know the most I could afford, I bought it for $50, exactly what I told her.
The drive back was a tiring one, first to Montego Bay, where we had a nice little 5-10 minute break to meet up with our cousin Miguel we only just found out existed a couple of weeks ago, and then onto Negril - where we stayed at 'Country, Country', this great, kinda faux rustic looking hotel with a cottage for us entering right onto the beach! That night I opted for sleep instead of going out and instead of a midnight swim - probably not the grandest choice, at least not going on the swim - but I had already been out on the beach by myself and was made aware of the difference having my brother makes, and by the time he said he was going I was already under the covers. I had plans of not wasting the day and waking up with the sunrise - which I managed, except all that greeted me was rain! By the time I got up the second time though, a couple of hours later the day was ripe! Opening the doors to a beautiful white sand beach, discovering our complimentary breakfast was served on a patio on the beach, with a view of the ocean I definitely was lovin' it. And a fresh Jamaican breakfast of Ackee and Saltfish, Calaloo, Plantain, Fruit, Green Bananna, Pineapple Juice and Tea - umhmmm!
After eating, I decided it was about time to take advantage of my surroundings. I headed to the water and made my way, partly swimming, partly walking on the shore, up the beach. Again, the lack of Clinton's presence was made known. A lot of men called me over or wanted to swim with me or offered to take me out on wave runner's or the beach for free or for really low prices - no one was very forceful though, but a nice man I bought some great jewelery from warned me that if someone was offering to take me out on the wave runner that wasn't right. How it works is that you rent it from them and go out alone, offers like that meant the man was probably just hoping to mess around and maybe get sex. Good warning - not that I was about to go with the guy anyways. Later on Clinton joined me in the water and walking and we also had some fun on these big trampolines they had out in the water - trying to see who (among the many foriegners and locals there) could make it across the link to the opposite trampoline without falling off. Clinton made it once or twice I think but I only got 3/4's and then decided I better not try anymore for my neck's sake.
It was hard to leave that clear, warm, salty water with a turquoise hue, but the time came at last and before heading to our next major destination we took a little detour to a lighthouse from the 1800s or earlier that gave us an incredible view of the shore and cliffs, and mountains and deep blue green water.
Just after this, leaving Negril we heard what sounded like machine gun shots - I know it scared all of us but turned out to be nothing more than thunder as a few seconds later it started to pour - and I mean pour!! This was pretty much a torrential rainfall. It was bad driving, but we were at least glad it waited until we'd left the beach. After awhile, we drove out of it and were able to put the windows down again to enjoy the breeze and the scent of the forests just after the rain. It was also fun to see the school children playing in the gutters with their shoes off and kicking up the freshly fallen water. I tell you, I know our country is beautiful, but I don't always see it - I think I take the time more than a lot of people, for which I'm thankful, but here - every bend (almost) I just want to soak in. Despite being exhausted I was fighting to keep my eyes open so I wouldn't miss any of the people or the land.
Little Ochi, our next destination, is a famous restaurant that specializes in fish, right on the ocean, the fish is caught daily, and served to you in little huts on the beach, raised on stilts to allow for high tides. I generally like fish, but this, roasted and seasoned was some of the best fish I've ever had - so flavourful I just didn't want it to end and I cleaned it up better than I ever have before- I even ate the eye! More because I'd never done it than because of flavour though! Ok - DONE!
By the time we made it to Ocho Rios it was too late to go to Dunns River Falls like we had hoped but we just decided we'd have to come back the next day and went to the beach instead - a beautiful little public beach with water so warm it felt like a bath. We met some boys while there and were teaching them how to swim properly and then having breath-holding, and handstand competitions. I even had a little race with a man we met who said I swam like I was a professional. I was told we tied, but I think he beat me! As we were swimming and the sun was starting to set I noticed a bunch of guys playing soccer on the beach, half of them covered in sand from top to bottom. It was such a great scene - I wanted to take their picture but was kinda hesitant of asking, and of getting out of that amazing water to do it. Finally by the time I did the game had stopped and they were just kicking it around in a circle. We got some great pictures of the ones who were sititng out though - and one (an insanely sandy guy) asked for one with me, another for one with his baby girl - the kind of pictures we'd been hoping for but not managing to get in the city.
When it was time to go we headed to MoBay, driving along the coastland and had a rather unsatisfactory dinner that at least came with a lot of joking amongst us, culminating in 'distress' over being the only table to not have a flower. Lorna's icecream though - the reason she chose that restaurant - was phenomenal! Whoo - detail overload, ok, let's try to be a tad more concise here . . .
In MoBay we stayed at a YWAM facility with beautiful grounds, palm trees, coconuts, nooseberry's, bright flowers, all built on a hill overlooking the ocean. After getting cleaned up it was off to our first 'night on the town' in Jamaica - Margaritaville was the destination and though it took an hour or so to get into it (when they stopped playing pop'ie dance music)and more of the tourists left, it was pretty good - man, some of the guys here really know how to dance! Impressed me much more than the ladies.
During the morning we took some walks around the property, went for a swim at the pool and had one of the best breakfasts I've ever had in my entire life. I think I commented on it's goodness near a dozen times - Saltfish and vegetables, fried plaintain, fried dumplings . . .salivating just thinking of it - and . . . once again we were off, back to Ocho Rios with a quick stop at the place where Colombus first landed, a tour through the Green Grotto caves - a place rich with history and intrigue and blessed with a great guide to add to the wonder and beauty of this ancient hideout. At one point we were supposed to be able to 'truly experience' what it would have been like for the slaves who had to hideout deep in the caves around the underground lake - walking up the steps with only the sound of our leader's voice to guide us - he said it would get so dark we couldn't see our hands in front of our face, and he wasn't lying. Less than a minute into it though - one woman, claiming she wasn't Jamaican and she couldn't do this begged for the man to turn the light on - ruining the experience for all of us >>sigh<< some people. To all you parents and would be's out there, teach your children from an early age to just grit their teeth and bear it! Or at least know their limitations and not enter some situation that affects others unless they know they're going to make it through.
We had hoped to spend some time with a couple, Carlton and Pansy Mullings, who were instrumental in my mother coming to Jamaica and who married my parents. Unfortunately because of time though, it turned into a less than 10 minute visit only with Rev. Mullings. It was still good though - and I'm glad we caught at least him. We were hoping we'd be able to hook up again on the weekend but it looks like that will be full of cousin stuff - just not enough time! Or not enough weekend time at least, haha.
And then. . . onto what was probably one of the highlights for me on the weekend trip and I think Clinton as well. (Sadly we had to say goodbye to Nadia as she needed to get back to Kingston for work). Dunns River Falls. This places is incredible. It's this long water fall leading down to the ocean and you start at the bottom and climb your way up to the top. Much to my annoyance, I lost one of my contacts about 5 minutes into the journey (while fighting against a massive current trying to get under a strong, strong fall) and so I was half blind for the next hour and a half or so - but it was still wonderful. We were told to join up with a group but we wanting to take our own time and find our own way so we quickly left them and just 'moseyed' up, battling the currents, resting in the shallow pools, being massaged as we lay our backs against the rocks and let the rushing water fall over us. Lorna was taking pictures for us from the steps along the side so we thankfully we have some documentation of it! It's hard to explain really, this place is wondrous - Clinton commented a couple of times that he couldn't believe a place like this exists and I agreed - we have a creative God. I felt so blessed to be able to be there - and to be there with my brother. I'm so thankful he came on the trip, it would have been such a different experience without him, not nearly so enjoyable. At the top of the falls (well, as far as people go) we just relaxed, soaking in as much of it as we could. We found some parts where the water would push us down, creating a sort of slide, haha, like children we let it take us along and revelled.
We did a quick shop stop where Clinton got some gifts for Alysis and I was able to buy a painting I'd seen earlier on in the day - $120 US was the first price offered and with the help of Lorna who wanted to know the most I could afford, I bought it for $50, exactly what I told her.
The drive back was a tiring one, first to Montego Bay, where we had a nice little 5-10 minute break to meet up with our cousin Miguel we only just found out existed a couple of weeks ago, and then onto Negril - where we stayed at 'Country, Country', this great, kinda faux rustic looking hotel with a cottage for us entering right onto the beach! That night I opted for sleep instead of going out and instead of a midnight swim - probably not the grandest choice, at least not going on the swim - but I had already been out on the beach by myself and was made aware of the difference having my brother makes, and by the time he said he was going I was already under the covers. I had plans of not wasting the day and waking up with the sunrise - which I managed, except all that greeted me was rain! By the time I got up the second time though, a couple of hours later the day was ripe! Opening the doors to a beautiful white sand beach, discovering our complimentary breakfast was served on a patio on the beach, with a view of the ocean I definitely was lovin' it. And a fresh Jamaican breakfast of Ackee and Saltfish, Calaloo, Plantain, Fruit, Green Bananna, Pineapple Juice and Tea - umhmmm!
After eating, I decided it was about time to take advantage of my surroundings. I headed to the water and made my way, partly swimming, partly walking on the shore, up the beach. Again, the lack of Clinton's presence was made known. A lot of men called me over or wanted to swim with me or offered to take me out on wave runner's or the beach for free or for really low prices - no one was very forceful though, but a nice man I bought some great jewelery from warned me that if someone was offering to take me out on the wave runner that wasn't right. How it works is that you rent it from them and go out alone, offers like that meant the man was probably just hoping to mess around and maybe get sex. Good warning - not that I was about to go with the guy anyways. Later on Clinton joined me in the water and walking and we also had some fun on these big trampolines they had out in the water - trying to see who (among the many foriegners and locals there) could make it across the link to the opposite trampoline without falling off. Clinton made it once or twice I think but I only got 3/4's and then decided I better not try anymore for my neck's sake.
It was hard to leave that clear, warm, salty water with a turquoise hue, but the time came at last and before heading to our next major destination we took a little detour to a lighthouse from the 1800s or earlier that gave us an incredible view of the shore and cliffs, and mountains and deep blue green water.
Just after this, leaving Negril we heard what sounded like machine gun shots - I know it scared all of us but turned out to be nothing more than thunder as a few seconds later it started to pour - and I mean pour!! This was pretty much a torrential rainfall. It was bad driving, but we were at least glad it waited until we'd left the beach. After awhile, we drove out of it and were able to put the windows down again to enjoy the breeze and the scent of the forests just after the rain. It was also fun to see the school children playing in the gutters with their shoes off and kicking up the freshly fallen water. I tell you, I know our country is beautiful, but I don't always see it - I think I take the time more than a lot of people, for which I'm thankful, but here - every bend (almost) I just want to soak in. Despite being exhausted I was fighting to keep my eyes open so I wouldn't miss any of the people or the land.
Little Ochi, our next destination, is a famous restaurant that specializes in fish, right on the ocean, the fish is caught daily, and served to you in little huts on the beach, raised on stilts to allow for high tides. I generally like fish, but this, roasted and seasoned was some of the best fish I've ever had - so flavourful I just didn't want it to end and I cleaned it up better than I ever have before- I even ate the eye! More because I'd never done it than because of flavour though! Ok - DONE!
posted by Charles at 5:50 PM
2 Comments:
Wow...not you have really made my jealous!! I want some ackee and saltfish too...and that fish cooked on the beach....yum,yum! Dunns River Falls is amazing, isn't it? I loved it there...just loved it. Jim and I also went to the falls and the Green Grotto Caves while on our honeymoon. I can't wait to see all the pics.
Oops...should have read "now" not "not" ...and "me" not "my"
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